… Unlike almost every other grower and winemaker in California, Mr. [Matt] Niess, the proprietor of North American Press in Sonoma County, is focusing squarely on hybrid grapes. … In addition to global warming, wine regions have experienced more frequent catastrophic weather events, like hail, drought and spring frosts, along with devastating bouts with fungal diseases and insect infestations. … And so, grape-growers across the wine-producing world are beginning to examine the possibilities of hybrid grapes, which often have far-greater resistance to these diseases and don’t require the same sort of intensive chemical crutches.